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This specific iteration of our RIMS package comes with the 18" RIMS main body and a 5500 watt 15" Long heating element. It is still designed to be run on 120 volts through the included PID controller but the increased element length that will be producing 1375 watts will reduce risk of scorching high gravity, viscous wort.
RIMS stands for Recirculating Infusion Mash System and it can be interpreted a few different ways. It is typically a system where the brewer continuously pulls mash wort out of the mash tun, pumps it through this RIMS tube where an electrical heating element is installed, and then out and back to the top of the mash. The primary purpose is for mash temperature stability. Side benefits include ultra clear wort, and the ability to fine tune your mash schedule. If you didn't already know some of this stuff, you probably aren't ready to use a kit like this. If you're still following along, we'll talk about what makes our kit different than others.
A quick summary of what makes our RIMS system so lovely; The input output ports are smooth sanitary welded camlock (or other QD) profiles nicely polished out. The TC end clamps have mounting hardware welded so you can attach it to supports and brewstands without any extra clamps. It comes apart and assembles back together with the operation of two TC wingnuts. The Electrical connection to the element (in this particular package) is made with a built in NEMA twist lock connection on the back of the element.
We've sold hundreds of plain RIMS hardware packages over the years leaving it up to the customer to figure out the whole operational system but this is the first time we're bundling it together with most of the parts you need to make it happen, including the controller.
What's included:
- Main Tube Body, 18" length, 1.5" TC In and Out ports, mounting hardware.
- 5500 watt ULWD foldback element (240 volt but will be powered with 120 volts and make 1375 watts) with integrated TC flange installed into RIMS.
- 48" power cable with plug to go between RIMS and controller
- Inkbird IBP-16S plug and play PID power controller with pump on/off switch and with temperature sensor mounted in TC thermowell for the RIMS end.
What's NOT included:
- Mash Tun
- Recirculation Pump
- Tubing and Disconnects
- Wort return/diffusion device
Pretty please read these WARNINGS:
- Liquids and electricity are usually a horrible combination. Be careful installing your heating element. Apply some white petroleum lubricant to your element oring before screwing it in. It will allow the oring to seat without having to overtighten. Test the seal by mounting your assembled unit vertical with the element on the bottom. Connect the input/output ports togeter with a hose and fill with water. If you get any drips, tighten by a quarter turn. Do NOT make electrical connections or thread on the larger end of the canister until you are positive the element seal is not leaking.
- Never defeat the ground pin on either the RIMS unit or the controller and never use a 3pin to 2pin adapter. You should use GFCI equipped outlets for extra shock protection.
- Based on typical RIMS usage, it is an extremely bad idea to install a valve on the output/downstream port because if the element is allowed to run by accident (even with a temp controller in operation) you may boil the liquid and the enclosed chamber WILL rupture violently (explode!). If you want to throttle down the flow through this unit, it should be done with a valve on the output of your pump, which is on the INPUT side of the RIMS. The output should flow to your mash tun with the tubing and other parts unrestricted. In this regard, it is a bad idea to use a sparge arm/recirculation manifold with drilled holes or slots. If they plug up, they can also provide a lot of back pressure. Use a liquid return method with larger openings or a single large opening.
- Be sure your unit is filled with liquid (or better yet, get liquid flowing through) before you let your element energize. The unit can be mounted either horizontally or vertically, but for each of those, the wort in/out ports should be a certain way. If you go vertical, orient the elment end down and pump liquid from the lower port up to the upper port. If horizontal, put the element end camlock port in the "down orientation" and use this as the input.
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