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RIMS stands for Recirculating Infusion Mash System and it can be interpreted a few different ways. It is typically a system where the brewer continuously pulls mash wort out of the mash tun, pumps it through this RIMS tube where an electrical heating element is installed, and then out and back to the top of the mash. The primary purpose is for mash temperature stability. Side benefits include ultra clear wort, and the ability to fine tune your mash schedule. If you didn't already know some of this stuff, you probably aren't ready to use a kit like this. If you're still following along, we'll talk about what makes our kit different than others.
We've seen other vendors selling RIMS kits based on polished sanitary tubing and triclover connections but this design is simplified in a few ways. First, it only requires two gaskets and TC clamps. Due to the huge growth in camlock quick disconnect use, we also weld male camlocks directly into main unit. There's no need to adapt your current plumbing system into TC hose barbs.
The real highlight of this new design is the element protection canister. The matter of enclosing the electrical connection of your heating element has long been the shortcoming of many Do-It-Yourself RIMS assemblies. Many solutions relied on "potting" the exposed connections with silicone or epoxy which was a bit more permanent than practical. In addition to shielding the connections, another challenge is providing an earth ground point on the metal pieces. Our design solves both of these problems in an aesthetically pleasing and functionally adequate way.
Lastly, we've included a simple but effect way to mount the RIMS to your brew stand without any extra bulky hardware.
What's included:
Main Body: 100% stainless steel, highly polished 1.5" tubing with triclover ferrules on both ends and sanitary welded NPT input and output ports. The main body is offered in 12" or 18" length, measured between the triclover flanges.
We also stock limited quantities with camlock and TC ports. See other products.
On the Temp Sensor End of the Tube:
1.5 TC gasket (high temp food grade silicone)
1.5 TC clamp with welded M8 nut for mounting
Your choice (selected in the dropdown menu above) of:
- 1.5" Triclover to 1/2" NPT Female Adapter for your thermocouple or RTD (you supply the sensor). Please be aware that this end cap is simply drilled and tapped for female NPT thread.
- 1.5" Triclover to 1/4" NPT Female Adapter for your thermocouple or RTD (you supply the sensor). Please be aware that this end cap is simply drilled and tapped for female NPT thread.
- 1.5" Triclover with welded in thermowell. This thermowell extends 1.5" from the flange and has an ID of 6mm. This was sized specifically for the Inkbird IPB-16 controller that we also sell. The probe fits VERY snug. We like to reduce the diameter a hair with some coarse sandpaper and then lubricate with vaseline for insertion into the well.
- Last, you may opt to leave out the probe TC end altogether if you plan to source your own TC integrated sensor. Note that this option still includes the TC clamp and gasket as mentioned above.
Element Enclosure End:
1.5 TC gasket (high temp food grade silicone)
1.5 TC clamp with welded M8 nut for mounting
Your choice (selected in the dropdown menu above) of:
- Hotpod ETC: 1.5" Triclover to 1" NPSL adapter. 1" NPS heating elements will thread in easily to allow for full gasket/oring contact (heating element not included). The adapter is welded to a screw-together canister with ground screw and cord grip with strain-relief. The cord grip can accommodate cords ranging from 3/8" to 3/4". All necessary crimp on wire connectors to attach your wiring to the element and the ground terminal.
- Delete Hotpod Option. If you plan to use one of our TC-integrated heating elements in this system, you will want to delete the HotPod enclosure via options above as it will not be needed. If you select this option you still get the TC clamp and gasket.
Note: if you select the Hotpod ETC option, you will need to wire in some appropriate flexible cable to supply the power to your element which will be hardwired into the HotPod. If you decide to use one of the TC Integrated elements, those are all equipped with an L6-30P electrical connection. You will need to build an appropriate cable with an L6-30R on the element end.
Extras:
One pair of M8 stainless bolts, washers and nuts to mount the unit to your brewstand.
Before we get to the buy buttons, please read these WARNINGS:
- Liquids and electricity are usually a horrible combination. Be careful installing your heating element. Apply some white petroleum lubricant to your element oring before screwing it in. It will allow the oring to seat without having to overtighten. Test the seal by mounting your assembled unit vertical with the element on the bottom. Connect the input/output ports togeter with a hose and fill with water. If you get any drips, tighten by a quarter turn. Do NOT make electrical connections or thread on the larger end of the canister until you are positive the element seal is not leaking.
- Consult with electrical professionals for assistance, advice or just pay someone to make the electrical connections safe. We are not providing the element, cord, or plug connections and cannot guarentee that you will be able to complete the usable assembly on your own if you do not have electrical expertise. The crimp on ring terminals need to be well-crimped to the wire with appropriate tools for maximum safety. Ensure that the two hot conductors, terminals, etc do not touch each other or the electrical canister.
- Make sure you connect your earth ground wire to the canister per your electrician's guidance. In addition to the earth ground, you should use GFCI outlets or other methods of electrical protection.
- Based on typical RIMS usage, it is an extremely bad idea to install a valve on the output/downstream port because if the element is allowed to run by accident (even with a temp controller in operation) you may boil the liquid and the enclosed chamber WILL rupture violently (explode!). If you want to throttle down the flow through this unit, it should be done with a valve on the output of your pump, which is on the INPUT side of the RIMS. The output should flow to your mash tun with the tubing and other parts unrestricted. In this regard, it is a bad idea to use a sparge arm/recirculation manifold with drilled holes or slots. If they plug up, they can also provide a lot of back pressure. Use a liquid return method with larger openings or a single large opening.
- Be sure your unit is filled with liquid (or better yet, get liquid flowing through) before you let your element energize. The unit can be mounted either horizontally or vertically, but for each of those, the wort in/out ports should be a certain way. If you go vertical, orient the elment end down and pump liquid from the lower port up to the upper port. If horizontal, put the element end camlock port in the "down orientation" and use this as the input.
- Long foldback elements may require a little tweaking to fit down the center of the tube without hitting the sides. In some cases, locking the fold of the element into a vise protected by some rags will make the element more compact.
12" or 18" main body"
We can't determine this for you. It's completely based on what element length and what RTD/temp probe length you want to use. The minimum temp probe length should be 2" while 4" is most practical. You'll want about 1" of space between the element and the temp probe at minimum. So all you have to do is add up the temp probe length and the element length you want to use and add at least one additional inch for the gap. If it's less than 12", get the 12" main body. If it's between 12 and 18", get the 18" main body.
While we're trying to avoid giving electrical advice, we will mention that many customers have had great success running low watt density foldback style elements to avoid scorching wort if your flow slows down. If you plan to use 120 volts (common), there seems to be very little selection for ultra low watt density elements. The Camco 02852 used to be a great option before they shortened them to 4 inches long (yes, you read that right. No matter what Amazon lists as the length, they are 4" long when you receive a 02852). A great solution is to use a mid-length element rated at 5500 watts @ 240 volts and still run it at 120 volts. You end up with 1375 watts with extremely low watt density. You may even find one like this at Home Depot or Lowes.
What kind of controller should you use"
We get this question often, including questions about whether we can
supply, built, or recommend a commercial controller. At this time we
don't have the resources to manufacture controllers. Any controllers we
see offered from other vendors seem to be overpriced for what you get so
IF you are capable of DIY assembly or know an electronics savvy, helpful
individual, go that route.
Some people are happy with them, but we
don't love using Ranco and Johnson A419 controllers on these because
those are more suited to occasional on/off cycles and not the constant
flicker style operation needed for RIMS. For that reason, we highly
suggest PID based controllers coupled to a solid state relay (SSR) to
control the element. Common brands are Auber Instruments, Omega, Mypin
(model TA4), etc. The basic required components for a safe, reliable
controller are: GFCI enabled circuit (in your breaker panel or inline
cord GFCI), power cord, main shut off switch to disable the element
power, PID, Thermocouple or RTD temp sensor with NPT threads, SSR with
heat sink, plastic project box, and element power cable. A DIY
controller like this will cost between $80 and $150 depending on the
suppliers used.
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