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This tool creates a flared opening in kettle walls, bottoms, lids, etc for install of 1.5" TC weld ferrules. Once the ferrule is installed, it is well prepped to receive a bead of silver solder for strong permanent (or not) install.
Here's how it gets installed using the one step pull-in method:
- Drill a 1-1/4" hole in your pot using either a step bit or a 32mm tungsten carbide hole saw.
- Deburr the hole (file or sand the sharp edges). If you used a step bit, you can use it to deburr the hole by running it on the other side of the hole.
- Degrease the pot wall, TC ferrule, and tapered bullet mandrel with acetone, etc.
- The bolt of the install tool remains installed through the large cup die and that assembly goes inside the pot with the threaded side of the bolt sticking out through the 1-1/4" hole.
- On the outside of the pot, the narrow end of the bullet mandrel is slid onto the bolt, followed by the TC ferrule, two fender washers, a smaller flat washer and finally the nut.
- Hand snug the nut until everything is firmly in place. Wiggle the bolt in a few directions to be sure everything is centered.
- Apply liquid flux to the fitting on the inside of the pot. This will ensure flux coverage when the fitting is pulled into place, but also acts as a lubricant.
- With a pair of wrenches of some sort, tighten the bolt/nut to pull the fitting through the hole. While the mandrel is creating the flared opening, it will be difficult to tighten the nut. Once the full diameter is reached, it will be easier to tighten. When the bullet mandrel clears the pot wall, you will hear a popping sound. You will want to continue tightening another 1.5 turns.
- Loosen the nut and take the tool out of place. You want the inside edge of the ferrule to stick into the flared opening by at least 1/16".
- Prop the pot on its back so that the TC flange is perfectly level in all directions facing up towards the ceiling.
- Apply a little more flux into the valley created by the flare, heat with a propane torch and apply Stay Brite silver solder to fill up the valley.
- After cooling, clean up the area and polish the heat affected areas with bar keeper's friend or a felt wheel with polishing compound to return the area to the original luster.
Other details:
The picture shows the tool with a TC ferrule loaded in the correct location for install but does NOT include one.
It comes with a grade 5 bolt and nut, two flat washers, two fender washers, a flaring bullet mandrel and a cup die.
Optional install method for 9th level hardware nerds (there is a relatively high failure rate for this method so use at your own risk):
The standard install method outlined above is awesomely easy with the only downside being that the solder joint is done on the outside. For a slightly better outside appearance, you can flare the hole outward and then pull the TC ferrule in from the outside. We call this the FOPI method (Flare Out, Pull In).
- Drill a 1-1/4" hole in your pot using either a step bit or a 32mm tungsten carbide hole saw.
- Deburr the hole (file or sand the sharp edges). If you used a step bit, you can use it to deburr the hole by running it on the other side of the hole.
- Degrease the pot wall, TC ferrule, and tapered bullet mandrel with acetone, etc.
- The bolt of the install tool remains installed through the large cup die and that assembly goes outside the pot with the threaded side of the bolt sticking in through the 1-1/4" hole.
- On the inside of the pot, the narrow end of the bullet mandrel is slid onto the bolt, followed by the TC ferrule, two fender washers, a smaller flat washer and finally the nut.
- Tighten the nut/bolt until the bullet mandrel pops all the way through the hole.
- IMPORTANT: Make sure the opening of the hole is smooth with no burrs. Any burrs will prevent the ferrule from popping back in.
- Wipe a light coating of Harris Stay Clean liquid flux on the interior of the flared opening.
- Load the tool with the TC ferrule in place this time exactly in reverse. The cup die goes inside the pot this time. The bullet mandrel will slightly stretch the flare open again (in the opposite direction) just enough to let the edge of the TC tubing to slip in.
- Slowly tighten the nut/bolt. If all goes well, the TC ferrule will slide into the opening of the flare. If it starts getting hard to turn, the leading edge of the ferrule may have gotten hung up on the edge of the flare.
- The final step is to solder on the inside of the pot.
What's that about failure rate? Yeah, it's an adventure for sure. If the ferrule gets hung up, it starts to deform the flare inward and it's enough to drive you to drink. In every test case that failed, we were able to tap out the deformity and go again. Is it for you? Probably not. Don't do it.
Do you care about Economics?
| Process | Tool/LaborCost | TC port | Total for 1 | Total for 4 ports | | Weld In Ferrule DIY | $1500 welder | $4.50 | $1504.50 | $1518 | | Weld In Ferrule HIRE OUT | $50 per port | $4.50 | $54.50 | $218 | | Pull Through Weld Ferrule (soldered) | $30 pull tool
$30 torch/gas | $4.50 | $64.50 | $78 | | Radius Faced Flange (soldered) | $30 torch/gas | $20 | $50 | $110 | | Weldless TC | $13 Socket | $26 | $39 | $117 |
Of course there are a lot of other factors to consider other than cost. The most skilled TIG welding professional possible will do a great job but only a lucky few homebrewers will have access. This pull through TC with soldering process is about as good as it gets for a DIY.
Optional Buy-Back Offer:
Consider the purchase price for this tool a deposit. If you should choose to return the tool after using it for a few installs, we will refund 2/3rds. With that spirit in mind, the tool you receive may not be pristine in appearance but will work as intended.
We found this article in Zymurgy magazine:
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Amazing tool 
