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These weldless kits are up-sized to 1/2" NPT hardware to accommodate larger vessel holes.
You can use this
if you already have a dial thermometer that has at least a 4"-6" probe
and 1/2" NPT threads on the back and you're starting with a fresh
undrilled, unwelded Sanke keg. Another popular use is threading in an RTD
or thermocouple for use with an electric brewing system (again 4-6" long
probes recommended).
This specific model LTSKxx is meant for use on kettles made from converted SANKE kegs. The tube is threaded at an angle to compensate for the slight curvature of the install locations on the lower sidewall of kegs. If your pot is straight/vertical on the sides, the model LTSPxx is what you're looking for.
Includes:
- 19" Polycarbonate Tubing rated to 250F threaded into a stainless bushing (basically the model SB kit). Longer units optional.
- Weldless assembly
- Black Vinyl Numbers for each gallon mark from 2 to 15.(5-50 liter also available, see options)
- 1/4" x 2" SS eyebolt.
Install Requirements:
- LOCATE the preferred center point for the sight glass bulkhead hole. Drill a 13/16" hole in the lower sidewall of your vessel, Keep in mind how low the thermometer will extend down below the centerpoint which matters if you want to set your pot down on a flat surface.. De bur the hole inside and out.
- Unscrew the threaded bushing from the elbow fitting and remove the silicone gasket.Leave the metal washer(s) on the bushing and insert it through the hole in the vessel from the inside.
- Push the red silicone washer over the threads on the outside of the vessel all the way tight to the sidewall. (most people ignore this and complain about leaks. We assume that if you're already reading this, you'll probably get it right so thanks for that. Again, the gasket goes on the OUTSIDE of the pot.
- Hold the tee fitting in front of the threads and turn the bushing from the inside to thread it in. The silicone washer should crush slightly between the fitting and the vessel wall but do NOT over tighten. It is better to undertighten and adjust a bit tighter later if it leaks. Note that the silicone gasket should be the only thing between the fitting and the outside wall of your vessel. You should NOT use teflon tape or any other type of thread sealant on the threads of the weldless bushing. The seal is made with the gasket.
- The only added step is threading the sight glass with bushing into the tee with some teflon tape on the threads. Note, the silicone sealing washer goes on the OUTSIDE of the vessel between the tee and vessel wall. When threading the sight glass with bushing into the top of the tee, be sure to use teflon tape.
- Make the tube straight up and down (plumb) and mark a spot to drill the 1/4" hole at the very top of the vessel for the eyebolt. Leave one nut on the eyebolt threads, slip the loop over the top of the sightgass tubing, insert the eyebolt threads into your 1/4" hole, and thread the second nut onto the threads from the interior of the vessel. The distance the tubing is held from the vessel can be adjusted before tightening everything up. On a straight pot, be sure to locate the hole as high as you can without the interior nut interfering with an inset style lid.
Tip: Take the time to make sure the tube is straight. I know you're anxious to get the job done but if you eyeball it badly, you'll regret it every time you brew and see a crooked tube.
CALIBRATION INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
1. Level the vessel, apply a vertical piece of masking tape to the side of the tube, and add a carefully measure gallon of water at a time noting each gallon on the tape. Empty the vessel and remove the sight glass. Cut the number strip into individual numbers, remove the rigid paper off the number, apply at the correct level on the tube. Remove the clear top masking leaving ONLY the black vinyl number behind. (It's probably better to view the video to get this). If you are adventurous, you can apply the decals directly to the sight glass while calibrating the level, but we find it's much easier to get a clean straight application with the tube laying down horizontally.
2. If you make a mistake applying the vinyl numbers, you should be able to scrape them off with your fingernail without damaging the tubing. However, do NOT use any solvents or adhesive removers except for rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and some elbow grease. Unfortunately if this happens, you'll have to buy another strip of numbers.
LENGTH TRIMMING INSTRUCTIONS for all kit types:
If after initial installation you find the tubing is sticking up past the top of the vessel, you may want to trim it flush to make it look better and avoid snagging.
1. Mark the cut line with a sharpie marker or piece of tape. WARNING, if you are using tape to mark the cut line, be sure to note which edge represents the cut line or you may cut the tubing short by whatever the thickness of the tape is.
2. Remove the kit from the vessel, laying the tubing down on a piece of cloth to avoid scratching, and cut the tubing with a hack saw or other fine-toothed trim saw. You can also use a tubing cutter designed for copper pipe to make a score cut around the tubing and then snapping it.
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can't recommend 
Great product.