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This kit will turn a keg into mash tun if you plan to weld your accessories in.
K-WELD-Mash-Dial
- Two port weld on kit gets you a way to drain the vessel and measure
the temperature.
Includes a 2pc ball valve
(upgradable to 3pc as an accessory), 5/8" diptube assembly with weld in
full coupling, T325dial thermometer with weld in half coupling.
- Note, this kit does NOT include a hose barb or camlock type F as shown in the pictures. Please select a hose connection fitting from the accessory list on the right.
Converting old scrapped Sanke half barrel (15.5 gallon
or 50 litre) kegs to brew vessels is very popular in the homebrewing
community so we've put together packages of accessories that are most
commonly used to reduce how many different items you have to add to the
shopping cart. Keep in mind that there are about 100 different ways you
might accessorize your project and we've only captured a few popular
ones here. All of these parts are available ala carte elsewhere on this
site.
Note: The primary application is for 15.5 gallon, American Sanke-style
Kegs, that measure approximately 15.75" diameter just above the area
that transitions to the dished bottom. This false bottom will
self-center at the area where it begins to curve into the dish. While it
may fit into other keg styles such as the European 50L, Coors, or Hoff
Stevens, we have not had the chance to test this.
Install Requirements: Bulkhead/Drain:
Weld the 1/2" NPT Half coupling in nice and low, parallel to the floor.
Thermometer:
Weld
the 1/2" NPT half coupling in where you want the thermometer to
install. PLACEMENT!!! Please consider the fact that you may want to brew
a smaller 5 gallon batch even though kegs are capable of 12 gallon
batches. Do not install your thermometer higher than the 5 gallon level.
Diptube and False Bottom:
The details below will suggest the need to trim the diptube in most cases. The two easiest ways to cut stainless tubing is a tubing cutter (Lowes/Home Depot) meant to cut copper tubing, etc or a hack saw with a fine tooth metal cutting blade. In the case of the hack saw, you'll want to clean up the sharp cut edges with a file or sanding block. Please be careful. The cut edge is really sharp.
Dip Tube Length Requirements:
If you're just buying the false bottom by itself without the dip tube, we assume you already have a diptube installed or plan to make one yourself. No problem, maybe. You'll need to make sure they will mate up. The centerpoint of the center hole will be between 7.44" and 7.81" from the sidewall of the keg where you'd install the bulkhead (depending on how you rotate the false bottom). It should be obvious that a diptube that is a little too long can be trimmed, but there is nothing you can do if it is too short. If you've purchased a thread-in style diptube from us in the past, check the measurement because the lengths were never as precise as required here.
Bulkhead Type Considerations:
If you already have your coupling welded in and select that style of thread-in diptube, we now base the dip tube length on the assumption that your coupling has been installed flush with the inside of the keg. If your coupling is welded half way into the keg or even flush with the outside, you will likely need to trim the length as discussed above.
Dip Tube Height Requirements
The height of the dip tube is less critical than the length, but there are some things to consider. First, if the drop is too long given your bulkhead install location, the horizontal tube is not going to seat into the compression fitting straight. In extreme cases, the compression nut won't even be able to thread on to the fitting. The easiest way to test fit is to install the diptube without the false bottom in your way. You can fix a long tube by trimming a little off the bottom opening. We recommend taking off small slivers at a time (no more than a 1/4" at a time). Keep test fitting it until the horizontal tube is sticking relatively straight out of the compression fitting while the bottom is just touching the bottom dish of the keg.
Many people will like to cut it even shorter to keep the opening from bottoming out on the keg and stopping the flow. However, our recommended solution to preventing bottom-out is to cut the bottom of the tube at an angle. AFTER you have the height trimmed so that it nearly hits the bottom, remove it and cut a triangular piece off the end. Then turn the blade to the end and remove the 3/4 piece. Now you have a point on the tube that will touch the bottom of the keg, but a wide open area to flow the wort out.
Now it's time to test fit the false bottom. Fold at the hinge to get the false bottom into the top of your keg, then open it up with the hinged DOWN. Drop the diptube (with compression nut and nylon ferrule in place) into the hole and try to get the horizontal tube into the compression fitting. You can slide the false bottom back away from the bulkhead to clear the compression fitting. Rotate the false bottom and notice how the diptube will get closer and further away from the bulkhead fitting. Ideally, you want the diptube fully seated into the compression fitting while the false bottom is well centered in the keg and sitting nice and level. If the false bottom is being held too far away from the bulkhead to sit flat, even when the center hole is rotated furthest away, you will need to trim the horizontal side of the diptube. Again, trim VERY little off at a time. Try 1/8" sliver off the end and retry the fit. This may be a hassle, but once you get the diptube trimmed perfectly, your subsequent disassembly for cleaning will be painless.
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